Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar highlights Wine By Joe’s whites!
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Oregon's White Wines
By Josh Raynolds
Away from their home turf, Oregon’s white wines have never really caught the growing wave of attention that has been directed to the state’s pinot noirs. Scarcity of supply plays a part, no doubt, as restaurants in the Pacific Northwest have for years taken advantage of these wines to showcase the local fishes that dominate their menus. This makes sense, as the vast majority of white wines produced in Oregon are done in a light, clean style. ( A few producers have begun to push the envelope by raising some of their wines in small oak barrels, and a few of these examples are outstanding, but many are simply overwhelmed by the wood.) Similarly, local retailers, especially those in Oregon, have always supported these wines.
Perhaps a larger obstacle to the popularity of Oregon’s white wines in other markets until recently has been their pricing. Many wines that command tariffs of $20 or more are cleanly made and refreshing but not especially concentrated, much less complex. The best of them, however, offer very good value. In fact, with the weak U.S. dollar having pushed the prices of French and Italian white wines of similar style much higher in recent years, the overwhelming majority of the wines reviewed here are more compelling purchases than ever before. Oregon’s challenge in the coming years will be to maintain that level of value. If the dollar eventually makes a comeback, how will Oregon’s whites fare at current price levels? In a world becoming increasingly awash in Muscadet, Spanish albariño and New Zealand and South African sauvignon blanc at lower price points, will savvy buyers in competitive markets be willing to lay out $20 or more for a clean, correct pinot gris?
Oregon’s warm 2006 vintage produced white wines with good ripeness and more fruit expression than the 2005s, based on what I saw this spring when I visited the Willamette Valley. With rare exceptions these are wines to be drunk as soon as possible after release, for their vibrant fruit character.
2006 Wine by Joe Pinot Gris Oregon - Rating: 87 - Buy this wine
($14) Yellow-gold. Powerfully scented bouquet of peach, apricot and poached pear. Soft and fleshy, offering good depth and warm pit and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes broad, with a gentle anise quality and decent length. These wines are made by Joe Dobbes.
2006 Wine by Joe Pinot Blanc Oregon - Rating: 88 - Buy this wine
($12) Light straw color. Zesty lemon and lime aromas gain depth with air, taking a turn to tangelo and melon. Stony and dry, with finely etched citrus flavors, light body and a subtle honeysuckle quality on the back end. Supple and inviting but also energetic, with good finishing cut.
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